Ralph Lauren - Fall 2006
Mind you, they are FAR from perfect, especially in terms of the artifice/affectedness of fit and proportion (seems like there is a knee-jerk reactionary mood against the equally loathsome over-slouchiness of past years.
But there are some elements I rather like. I find the riding jacket version at right to be...interesting and innovative in a benign way (not that I'd opt to wear it), save for the choice of a notch lapel, which I simply cannot abide. It cannot compensate for the wonderful ticket pocket, so there you are.
The Spinal Tap-snug cut of both trousers with stovepipe legs will become a sad aberration and forgotten footnote in a year or two. Avoid. I heartily approve, though, of pocket watches with chains (but then again, I would) and the white waistcoat with black tie at right strikes me as complete genius, as does the gradual reemergence of a proper wing collar after many years in hiding following many years of the sartorial abuse thereof.
Notice the self-tied bow ties. At these shows these are often tied sloppily on purpose, to highlight the self-tiedness aspect. In real life, you'd tie them as neatly as possible, secure in the knowledge it'll always have an ingratiating amount of imperfection/individualism. To willfully tie them sloppily is to be trying too hard. Oh, and the tie at left is a bit too big and, unless I am mistaken or my monitor needs serious recalibration, too velvety. Now you know.